A very long post

Ahhhh, I'm three countries behind, so blogging seems like such a daunting task (as I'm sure reading this will be). Here is what I have been up to the last few months:

LAOS

We flew from Hannoi to Vientiane, the Capital city of Laos. Here we spent a few nights just getting acclimated to the wonderfully relaxed atmosphere that is Laos. Coming from Vietnam (even though that remains one of my favorite countries) it truly felt like a breath of fresh air. Vientiane, although the capital, feels quite small and quiet - not a ton going on - but it's nice. Laos was governed by the French for a considerable amount of time, and that influence is definitely still apparent. While there we took a local bus to the Buddha Park. The park itself was lovely, tons of Buddhist imagery/large sculptures (mainly concrete and stone) a few of which included stairs and places to climb up. The ride there was a bit rough, as we were all standing and had no idea when we were supposed to get off - we new it was about 45 minutes out of the city, but coundn't really communicate that we didn't know which was our stop. We made it though, and were so happy to have done so. While in Vientiane we also took a cooking class. It was great, we went to the market (watched a live fish get de-scaled, hacked up and prepared into nice little pieces of meat - I don't eat fish but could appreciate that this woman had talent) and then learned how to prepare 5 tradional dishes. I guess the class was a bit larger than normal (there were about 10 of us) and that wasn't the best, but it was still interesting. We made some bizarre things - but it was really great learning about them at the beginning of our time in the country, as I could then identify the dishes later on. Green papaya salad is huge there - a green papaya is whacked repeatedly with a knife, and then the top bits are shaved off and fish sauce, chillies, lime and some other things are added.... They also love the ground beef/mint/corriander salad. Maybe the weirdest thing we made was minced pork, hardboiled egg yolk, citurs salad dressing - which oddly enough it was prety good. From Vientiane we took a bus to Luang Prabang - and just made it! We loaded our bags onto our first VIP bus (nothing remotely VIP about these busses, they are just large at have aircon) and decided we needed to grab some food. Willy and I then stopped into the bathroom and when we came out we were met by a running, panicked Ashley saying that the bus was leaving (with our backpacks/everything we have on board). We chased it down and made it *with breakfast I might add. A bit frightening, but then really just funny.

Luang Prabang was absolutely incredible. It sits between the Mekong and the Nam Khan Rivers and is simply enchanting. We spent the majority of our time in the old quarter, which revolves around the rivers and one main street, lined with restaurants, Wats and tour companies. When we got there we found (after searching for him forever) Willy's boyfriend Lance, who then traveled with us for about three weeks. It was also Willy's birthday while we were there, and her mother generously put all of us up at a nice hotel for a few nights (nothing like a nice room and a really comfortable bed). For the birthday dinner Ashley and I found an amazing little restaurant accesed via a tiny bamboo bidge across one of the rivers. We had our own little hut on the river and ordered "Lao fondue" which involved cooking raw meet on a metal plate, surrounded by a broth filled with numerous veggies (and whatever else you want to throw in). It was sooo deliscious. The town of Luang Prabang is rather small, and in a day one can visit numerous wats and beautiful sites. In addiation to seeing lots of temples, we visited the Royal Palace Museum (which was actually built fairly recently) and Ashley and I climed the numerous stairs to Phu Si. This temple sits essentially at the highest point of the old quarter and offers incredible views of the region. We also visited the Pak Ou cave (maybe an hour by bus, then a quick long boat ride across the river) which was really beautiful. It is filled with images of the Buddha - statues and carvings, large and small absoluetly everywhere - in every nook and behind or above anywhere one would normally think to look, there is a Buddah. That same day we went to Tat Kuang Si - a beautiful waterfall a bit outside of town that collects into numerous pools that were the most stunning light turquoise color I have ever seen. Also while in Luang Prabang we decided to do a day long cycling trip. I knew we would be riding for 6-8 hours but assumed it would be a nice little tour through villages... not the case. I have never done such intense mountain biking in my entire life - it was brutal. Once it was over I appreciated it and was so glad to have had the experience... but there were some pretty tough times on that trip. The best part of going to Luang Prabang was "feeding the monks". Every morning (maybe around 6am) the monks walk through the town in a long, single file line and collect what will be their meal for the day from the locals. The townspeope bring offerings of all sorts, but primarily sticky rice and fruit. We joined the locals on the side of the road, bought baskets of sticky rice and small bananas and were instructed how to properly go about giving the monks food (give each about a large tablespoon sized clump of sticky rice with your hands.... I also gave one a lollipop). It was truly incredible seeing hundreds of monks, wearing their bright orange robes, walk past the bright white and gold Wats and down the street in the crisp early morning air - definitely something I will not forget.

From Luang Prabang we went to Vang Viene via small van. I don't know what it is about the local Lao people, but they love to throw up in cars/busses/vans. We took a van because there were so many people throwing up into plastic bags on our last bus ride... nothing changed being in a van, locals still got sick into little bags they brought just for the occasion. The van ride was also a completely terrifying experience. We flew around sharpe turns over mountain passes and whenever there was a sign about slowing down our driver sped up. It was a long eight hours to say the least. The one good thing about the drive was that the mountains in Laos are unlike any I have ever seen before - the country is breathtaking and looks more like a fairy tale than real life.

The only reason people go to Vang Vieng is to go tubing - we'd been hearing about it since we arrived in southeast asia so we decided to check it out. "Tubing" is really just renting a tube, and going to lots of bars along the water. You tube from bar to bar (but you can also just walk along the bank to go to most), but spend the majority of the time at the first few bars. There are rope swings, ziplines, mud pits - all sorts of activiteies that probably shouldn't be offered to the highly intoxicated (which is basically the point) - I saw a lot of bruises, slings and even a home-made neck brace! It is absolutely crazy - people just go nuts. We went on Austrailia day which made our experience even more intense (those Aussies certainly have a lot of country pride). After being there less than an hour we were all covered in pernmant marker (everyone randomly writes on eachother), had headbands and lots of string bracelets good for free drinks at certain bars in town that night. Vang Viene is packed with "Friends bars" - restaurants with comfy seating and big televisions playing American t.v. episodes - mostly Friends and Family Guy. There are at the very least 20 of these (and the town is very small) and after a day on the water it is actually pretty nice to be able to eat a meal and watch Friends... (i might have gone a few times). While we were in Vang Viene we ran into Katie Thorton, another Skidmore alum and spent the next two weeks traveling with her and her friend Laura Maloney. They are absolutly incredible girls and we had so much fun with them! Ashley, Katie and I spent one day rock climbing in Vang Vieng which was great. The three of us also taught (or attempted to teach) monks english one night which was rather comical. Many of the males in Laos "take robes" (are monks) for a few months to a few years - and the majority do this while they are in their early teens. The three of us girls, a white board and around ten little boys made for a funny few hours. Oh, also the monks are not allowed to have physical contact with women - so of course I accidently tripped over one and grabbed another to steady myself... They didn't mind but I felt sooo bad!

From Vang Viene we went south to Paske for a night (where there is basically nothing to do) and set off the next day on a three day kayak trip through Si Phan Don (the 4,000 islands). The Kayaking was great (thought we would be doing more though), we also went on a bike ride, a trek (long walk), saw some waterfalls, listed to Buddha's story in a temple and did a lot of reading. The first night we stayed in bungalos that we situated in what must have been a chicken coup - I have never seen so many chickens in my life (or heard so many roosters crown together in the morning). The following night we did a "homestay" - we never met the family and slept in bug nets on their front porch, while they slept on the other side of a very thin wall. It was bizarre. The best part of the kayak trip (and one of the highlights of Laos for me) was the little ceremony we had about leaving the island. An extremely old (and hilarious) man who was previously a monk blessed us/said words of good luck while brushing our wrists and forearms with string bracelts he then tied around our wrists. This happened a few times, and by the end I had about six rope bracelets that apparently mean good luck for traveling. We then each took a shot of Lao whisky (never good, especially not in the morning, but we did it anyway) and a shot of beer and the ceremony was over. It was lovely, we then hung around and talked with the man for a bit before leaving the river and heading back to the mainland.

From Laos we took a day long bus to get to Phenom Phen, Cambodia. This included (obviously) a border crossing and I don't know what I expected, but certainly not this. The busses are only allowed to drive in their resident country, so we were dropped off at the edge of Laos and told to walk about a hundred meters (with all of our belongings) over to Cambodia. There we went got our visas (essentially at a shack on the side of the road) and they stamped our passports. Every step cost a dollar, and some people tried to refusing to pay - meaning only that the bus had to wait for them to give in. The whole thing took about two hours, it was very different.

CAMBODIA

We started our trip through Cambodia in Phenom Phen, and our first full day there was a big one. We went to the killing fields of Choeung Ek, where the Khmer Rouge executed approximately 17,000 men, women and children between 1975 and 1978. Among other things, we saw the mass graves, the tree used to shatted the skulls of babies (which were held by the ankles and swung into the tree), the clothing of those killed sticking out of the ground in the paths we walked and numerous different collections of bones and clothes. The history of the site is horriffic, and it was a very intense experience walking aroung. Right next to the killing fields is a primary school, and while touring the site we could hear children laughing and playing - I think the juxtaposition is a pretty good representation of Cambodia as a whole. From there we went to the Toul Sleng Museum (Security Prison 21). S21 was once a school and was converted into a prison and torture center in 1975. Most of the people detained here were eventually sent to the killing fields, and those who died during torture were burried in mass graves on site. The buildings were very eerie, and it was another extreme experience. Some rooms contained only a metal bed and a black and white photo of the room's former occupant being tortured or dead in the bed after. Other rooms were converted into numerous tiny cells. There were also various photograph displays that were quite moving. On a lighter note, in Phenom Phen we also had some fun times with Katie and Laura. We went to a bar called Heart of Darkness, embraced our American roots and made the dj play Miley Cyrus' "Party in the USA" and danced away. Apparently this bar is the cool place to go for the mafia young elite, their bodyguards and prostitutes (and a few other travelers). It was great, we went back the next night. The rest of our time in Phenom Phen I spent sick in my room with a 103 degree fever. I don't know how I did it, but so as not to miss anything important, I managed to get myself to the Royal Palace during one of those days. After walking around for about 20 minutes alone I decided I had seen it, and it remains a bit of a blur to me now (as I was pretty ill).

From Phenom Phen we went to Siem Reap to expience incredible Angkor Wat. These temples were built between the 9th and 13th centuries and served as the capital of the ancient Khmer empire. We bought three-day passes as there are hundreds of temples that are still standing, most in various stages of beautiful decay. Our first day we hired the "rock 'n' roll tuktuk" to take us around the major temples and the ones surrounding them. Our tuktuk was as tricked out as a tuktuk can get - with lots of lights, an ipod hook up and speakers (there was a fair amount of Miley played that day). It was great, and the weather was perfect so our day just incredible. Exploring the temples of Angkor is truly a captivating experience. I don't quite know how to explain it. They are so beautiful, detailed and full of character - and the dilapidation only enhances the charm. Wandering through tiny areas, away from everyone else and feeling a bit lost was my favorite part. One morning we watched the sunrise over the main temple and it was absolutely amazing.

I had a glorious time in Siem Reap while not at the temples as well. Two more of our friends from Skidmore - Haley Klatzkin and Allie Preefer - happened to be there at the same time which was wonderful. I had so much fun with them and really wish our trips overlapped for more than a few days. We spent a fair amount of time during the night at two central bars (Temple Bar and Angkor What?) and made lots of friends (and danced a lot). One night we spent at least an hour playing a hacky-sac type game in the street with some Cambodian teenagers - and then other foreigners joined in and we had a huge circle of about 20 people playing. It was awesome. We also decided to have a rather adventurous meal in Siem Reap.... consisting of frog legs, kangaroo, crocodile, snake and oestrich. As a whole Cambodia was wonderful, full of contradictions, and beautiful. I really enjoyed my time there (when I wasn't sick that is).

I still have to write about Thailand, but this post is wayyyyy too long and my computer is about to die (which I am taking as a sign). I am going to post about Thailand within the next few days so I can start writing about what I am actually doing now. Currently I am in India and I have fallen in love with the country. I am in Delhi now and am heading to Vrindivan tomorrow to work at an eco-village, yayy! Will write about that in a few months, haha kidding (hopefully). I apologize that this is so absurdly long. Love to all!